BSCCTech

This is the place where the disclaimer goes to protect the Executive, from any unwanted attention.   Please use the information contained within at your own risk.  We will not research, and we do not support any tips or information contained in the BSCCTech web page.   
    In any case, there's plenty of you out there just bursting, to lay claim to an unknown tip that can be posted on this webpage.   Come on now, lets have em. E-mail the webmaster@bsccweb.com

Tip #1 - A hooked blade carpet knife makes a terrific gasket scraper for those difficult and just tough to get at spots. The kind of knife I'm talking about has been around for years and has a yellow and green wooden handle. Simply sharpen the outside radius of the blade to a knife edge. Be very careful and wear your gloves

Tip #2 - If you find that you have to prime your windshield washer pump frequently, lower the pump position a few inches on the inner fender. This will help the pump to maintain its prime.

Tip #3 - A couple of drops of dishwasher detergent in with your windshield washer fluid will help prolong the life of your wiper motor, and get rid of that annoying wiper blade chatter. Careful now, we don't need another Lawrence Welk show.

Tip #4 - When trying to remove your steering wheel place a socket over the hub nut and give it a sharp strike with a hammer. This will break the spline joint in the hub free of the shaft and the wheel will be removed easily after withdrawing the nut. When reinstalling use some never sieze on the splines to make it easier the next time. This method of removal is not recommended for collapsible type steering column assemblies.

Tip #5 - A fabric softener dryer sheet underneath your seat will keep your vehicle smelling clean and fresh as well as absorbing any odours.

Tip #6 - A bar of regular hand soap can be used to temporarily seal a small leak in you fuel tank. Just rub the bar against the leaking area. Get the tank fixed properly as soon as you complete your trip.

Tip #7 - The answer from the experts on GL-4 and GL-5 gear lube. The following is a reply from Castrol on their       recommendations for transmission oil in our British cars.

We would recommend the use of a GL-4 rated fluid such as Castrol Hypoy 80w-90 (Not to be confused with Hypoy C 80w-90 which is a GL-5 product). A GL-4 oil may be employed in certain manual transmissions whereas a API
GL-5 gear oil designates service of hypoid and other types of gears commonly found in rear axles. These differences are mainly distinguished by the level of active additives employed in the product. Different applications require different additive levels and different component materials can be affected by the levels of additives present in the
lubricant.
Having said that GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils are not compatible and manufacturer's recommendations should be adhered to.  They cannot meet the same specifications and the product performance and tests are different.
Typically, a GL-5 gear oil will have about 2 times the active additive level of a GL-4 product. This additional additive can cause problems with yellow metals like brass or bronze.

Consumer Relations
Castrol North America
1-800-462-0835
castrol@idea-factor.com

Tip #8 - Oil Spray Formula-Being cheap, a DIY waxoyl substitute that seems to work just fine can be made from the following:

1 gallon mineral spirits
1/4 - 1/2 lb of cheap candles (parrafin works best, but is kinda spendy)
1/2 quart ATF

Oddly enough, mineral spirits will dissolve candle wax pretty easily. Grate the candles up with an old cheese grater, and put the shavings in the mineral spirits. Add the ATF and let things sit until the wax is in solution. If you want to speed things up, you can place the mix in a tub of hot water. Shake occasionally, and within a week everything is set.
Load it into a cheap garden sprayer, and go to town on the underside of your car. (clean of course) Once the mineral spirits evaporate you're left with a nice semi flexible undercoating for cheap. Make sure to get the solution everywhere, in all the crevices you can.
As an aside, try to use non-colored candles. Somewhere out there is an old F-150 with a pink coating of wax all along the underside

Tip #9
-  BRIGHTER BRAKE LIGHTS - Most of our old cars use a two filament bulb for tail light/brake light and park/signal lights. The standard bulb is 1157  which puts out two candle power on low and 32 candle power on high. It can be replaced with the 2357 bulb which puts out 3 candle power on low and 40 candle power on high, giving a considerably brighter brake light for only a couple of loonies. A small price for improved safety.

Tip #10 - INTERMITTENT BRAKE LIGHTS Recently, after a run, Chris Taylor informed me that my '67 MGB had very intermittent brake lights. The old pressure switch was replaced last year. Quite often, with light pedal pressure, it is possible to stop without producing enough pressure to activate the switch.
I got a pedal cover and mechanical switch from Jim Hilton and replaced the old cover. With a little rewiring, I now have a switch that can be adjusted so that the brake lights come on as soon as I push the pedal, giving consistent brake lights even when slowing easily.
For cars other than the MGB a similar switch can be mounted on a bracket by the brake pedal.
If
you have any questions you can contact Norb Meyer - 905-627-3737.

Tip #11 - MORE TAIL LIGHT TIPS -  For extra bright tail/brake lights you can get a halogen bulb rated 15/50w     (our std head lights are around 50w). They are available at The Little British Car Co for $12.00 ea. You can order them online at their website www.LBCarCo.com.  Thanks to Chuck Baby for this tip.

Tip #12 - STOP RAD LEAKS -Large flaked pepper will stop small rad leaks! Simply pour the pepper in the rad and replace the cap. Make sure your rad is filled with water and then start the engine. As the pressure in the rad builds it will push the pepper to the leak, collecting on the edges of the opening. Slowly the flaked pepper will block the hole with the heat being built up in the rad. I have made this temporary repair myself when a stone pierced a down tube. I crimped the cracked down tube with pliers at the break to minimize the hole. The repair lasted for several days until I could pull the rad to have it repaired. (from Albert Froggett)
It only works with flaked pepper not the finely ground type !!